The journal
What we would tell you on the phone, written down.
16 September 2026 · 5 minutes
How many days does Ladakh really need?
Eleven, twelve, fourteen — and why the answer has more to do with altitude than with distance.
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18 September 2026 · 4 minutes
Holi in Braj, 2027: where to be, and on which day
Lathmar Holi at Barsana and Nandgaon comes days before the Holi everyone knows. The order matters.
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19 September 2026 · 4 minutes
Two days in Varanasi: the boat, the aarti and Sarnath
The oldest living city in the world, in the only order that works.
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